BOOK: “Mad About the Mekong” by John Keay

Mad About The Mekong: Exploration and Empire in South East AsiaMad About The Mekong: Exploration and Empire in South East Asia by John Keay
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

Publisher’s Site

This book is largely, but not exclusively, an accounting of the Mekong Exploration Commission’s two-year (1866-1868) expedition of the Mekong River. The French undertook this expedition in the expectation that the Mekong, like other of the world’s major rivers, would allow ocean-going ships to traverse deep inland — possibly even up into Yunnan, China. The explorers were quickly disabused of this notion, but they relentlessly kept going – despite suffering from disease and the exhaustion of a trip that involved a lot more portaging and other intense physical activities than they’d hoped for.

As I mentioned, Keay doesn’t stick purely to description of the activities of these nineteenth century explorers. Along the way he also brings in fascinating stories from other periods as well as discussion of what the river is like (e.g. its ecology, infrastructure, role in geopolitics, etc.) these days. So, while it would be excessive to call the book a history of the Mekong, it is in some regards — albeit the highlights reel. Some of the diversions were among my favorite parts of the book. Perhaps my favorite was the story of Tony Poe, whose story is said to be the model for Col. Kurtz of Apocalypse Now. I’d long heard that that movie was based on Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, and it is (the name “Kurtz” is clearly from Conrad’s novella, though Poe’s occupation more closely mirrors the Col. Kurtz character played by Marlon Brando.)

While the book sometimes shines the light more broadly than he Mekong Exploration Commission Expedition, it also narrows its focus much of the way, putting the expedition’s most colorful character, Francis Garnier, front and center. Garnier was not only the most intriguing member of the leadership, he also led the group to what was the end of the line for the expedition, deep in China, when the Captain, Ernest Doudart de Lagree, became incapacitated by disease.

If you’re interested in history, travel, or exploration, I’d recommend this book.

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DAILY PHOTO: Canoe in the Mekong Delta

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Mekong Canoe [Haiku]

the tilting boat
slips the nipa labyrinth
with silent ease

DAILY PHOTO: Croc Maw

Taken in the Mekong Delta in December of 2015

DAILY PHOTO: Bee in Flower, Mekong River

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

DAILY PHOTO: Canoe in the Mekong Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

DAILY PHOTO: Boats Parked in the Mekong Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

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DAILY PHOTO: Fruit of the Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

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All these were taken on the islands near My Tho in the Mekong Delta of Vietnam.

DAILY PHOTO: Dragon Head Totem

Taken in December 2015 in the Saigon Delta

Taken in December 2015 in the Mekong Delta

 

Dragons feature prominently in Vietnamese temples. These mythical beasts are one of four sacred creatures common to Vietnamese folklore. The others are the Phoenix, Unicorn, and a kind of Tortoise. The unicorn isn’t the variety seen on the book covers of 16-year-old girls, it’s a nasty beast.

DAILY PHOTO: The Eyes Have It

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

Taken in December of 2015 in the Mekong Delta

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In the Mekong Delta, the ships have eyes. Well, many of them do anyway. The eyes painted on the bow of boats and ships are to ward off evil. Interestingly, the one class of boats that typically don’t have eyes are fishing vessels. Fishermen fear the eyes will scare away the fish, and they’re willing to take their chances with evil. Plus, we all know that evil fish are the most tasty.