DAILY PHOTO: Bangalore Palace

Taken on September 16, 2013.

Taken on September 16, 2013.

Some claim Bangalore Palace is modeled off of Windsor Castle, but the official line is that any resemblance is purely coincidental. I don’t think cars are normally allowed to park here, but it was rented out for a wedding– which my wife and I kinda / sorta crashed. I’m not sure if the wedding was over, or if they were in the intermission stage. (I’m told that the only thing longer and more mind-numbing than a Catholic wedding is an Indian wedding. Having experience attending the former, I can only imagine the latter.)

While impressive from the outside, the palace is not a very highly rated attraction. In part this may be because it’s quite expensive by Indian standards (when you’re not crashing a wedding.) In part it this may be because the outlying grounds are not particularly attractive. I can’t well speak to the innards of the castle.

Supposedly, construction was begun in 1862 and was not fully completed until 1944. I’m sure the US Civil War to World War II time-frame is purely coincidental. It was built by the Principal of Central High School, Reverend Garrett, and once owned by the Maharaja of Mysore.

DAILY PHOTO: Vidhana Soudha

Taken September 14, 2013 in Bangalore

Taken September 14, 2013 in Bangalore

Bangalore hasn’t learned to do tourism. Perhaps this shouldn’t be a surprise as the city’s population has doubled from five million to almost ten million in the last dozen years. So, Bangalore’s government has a lot on its plate. However, because of this deficiency, the city is largely seen as a jumping off point for people wanting to go to places like Mysore, Hampi, or Kerala that are not so well-endowed of international flights but which are vastly more scenic.

I mention this because some of the most impressive sights in Bangalore are not very photogenic. First and foremost among these is the palatial Vidhana Soudha, which is the seat of the Karnataka State Legislature. It’s perfectly reasonable that it be closed to the public as serious work is done there, but it’s a little surprising not to be able to get a decent picture of it because of the ugly chainlink fence that surrounds much of it and dense clusters of trees that surround other parts of it. They are doing some work on the High Court side, so maybe they aim to throw tourists the bone of a little more picturesque view.

This isn’t the only bit of tourism unfriendliness. At Bangalore Fort we had a security guard attempt to extort money from us–and I’ve experienced similar things at smaller city parks with random cops. At least I think that’s what the guard was doing; there was neither signage to indicate we needed to pay a fee nor a ticket office. It may have just been that they didn’t put up the right signage. At any rate, we left without any pictures but without paying, and so one way or another this was just bad tourism. Many people probably don’t even know about the little section of fort that remains, but it is easily combined with a trip to the Tipu Sultan’s Palace and the City Market.

While Bangalore doesn’t have a lot of sights for a city of its size (because it hasn’t been a city on this scale for long–compared to places like Delhi, Mumbai, or Kolkata), it could do a lot better to build its tourism revenue, and doesn’t have the history. It’s not quite like Belize City, where the general advice is, “Yeah, you have to fly in there, but get the hell out as soon as you can.” However, it’s not a pleasant place to sight-see either.

DAILY PHOTO: KR Market Flower Floor

Taken September 14, 2013 in Bangalore

Taken September 14, 2013 in Bangalore

In the City Market (a.k.a. the K.R. Market) flower garlands are sold from massive rolls bursting with color. One can look down from above, and get some great shots.

DAILY PHOTO: Mayo Hall

Taken September 12, 2013 in Bangalore.

Taken September 12, 2013 in Bangalore.

Named for the Sixth Earl of Mayo… No, I am not making that up… No, I’m not aware of whether the Sixth Earl of Mayo has any relationship to the Fourth Earl of Sandwich–famous inventor of meat between bread. If only Sir Francis Bacon had been made an Earl…

The Deferential Calculus of Being an American in India

Every time I come home, the security man at the desk at our apartment building jumps to his feet and proceeds to stand at attention until I pass. This makes me uncomfortable, as do the many other ingrained acts of deference that occasionally border on obsequiousness. I’ve considered stopping to tell him he can be permanently “at ease” with me, but given the language barrier I’m afraid I’d just confuse the issue–plus have him standing at attention that much more longer. So, when in Rome…

If you’re an American, but not, say… General Pershing, you’d probably find this makes you uneasy as well. I think one of the reasons that Americans have historically excelled at technological development  is that we were in a hurry to have machines do our laundry, wash our dishes, or trim our nose hairs so that we wouldn’t have to have some other human apparently kowtowing to us. (This may be why the 19th century North was considerably more technologically advanced than its Southern counterpart, which had successfully rationalized a subclass of human being.)

There’s a guy who stands at the end of the lane and lifts a swing arm up and down every time a car (or, oddly, a pedestrian such as myself) comes down the lane. The first couple times I walked around the end in hopes of indicating to him that, “Hey, see you don’t really need to swing that thing up, I can just walk right around it, easy as pie.” I think I hurt his feelings, or–perhaps worse–undermined his reason for getting up in the morning. My point is that operating a swing-arm barrier is a perfect example of the type of job that has been completely mechanized in America.

I’m sure that cultural differences are the root of my discomfort. India is coming from the caste system, whereby who you were born to determined your status in a rigidly hierarchical structure. While Indians may have dropped the caste system, the underlying thought process dies hard. I, on the other hand, come from a culture which believes that on a fundamental level we are all equal. Americans are often stymied as to why we are viewed as being arrogant by other cultures. This may be a failure to see things in the same light. It’s not so much that we project that we are better than the average Joe, it’s that we don’t accept that the kings and holy men those cultures hold dear are above us. This is true. I don’t think I’m better than the door man, but I also don’t think the King of [Fill in the blank] is better than me. [OK, the perception of arrogance is also partly that we’re loud and expect a ubiquity of comfort that is simply not available in much of the world. There is that. And the fact that our leaders often think they can fix every problem everywhere, and–given this is not actually true–we have left a lot of chaos in the our wake since our rise to hegemony.]

So the whole culture thing is part of it. However, I also worry that the man who brings my food with a warm smile and a bow is spitting in it. I wonder if the lady who launders my clothes, and then goes the extra mile by ironing them (though they mostly consist of T-shirts and jeans), might be preparing an itching powder attack. I wonder if the security guy standing at attention is just waiting for me to lock myself out of my apartment so that he can exercise some passive aggressive payback. [I suspect this is why Indian bureaucracy is notoriously slow and prickly. It’s a desire to exercise the leg up on has while one is in other ways part of an underclass.] I heard a comedienne of Indian origin say that her mother always flew British Airways just for the delight of bossing a Brit around. All of this consternation is because I worry that they think that I think I’m superior to them, which I don’t.

Yesterday I was eating at an Indian fast food joint called Kaati Zone. It’s one of those places that you order at the counter, get your food at the counter, and take it to one’s table. (FYI- this set up is much less common here except for little holes in the wall where one stands to eat.) When I was done, I pitched my trash in the trash can and put my tray on top, just like one would at a Wendy’s. When I turned around there was a young woman with her jaw agape and eyes wide looking right at me. My first thought was that I had pitched my wallet or my journal in the trash. I did a pat down and found I was alright. As I left, it dawned on me that her surprise may have had something to do with my handling of my own garbage.

DAILY PHOTO: Thiruvalluvar

Taken September 12, 2013 near Ulsoor Lake.

Taken September 12, 2013 near Ulsoor Lake.

Thiruvalluvar was a Tamil poet and philosopher who is most famous for writing a tract on ethics called the Thirukkural. The Thirukkural is written as a series of couplets that comment on ethics, morality, and philosophy.

Here is a random couplet from Thirukkural:

He who with firmness curbs the five restrains

Is seed for soil of yonder happy plains

 

DAILY PHOTO: Parrot Got Bling

Taken in September of 2013 in Bangalore.

Taken in September of 2013 in Bangalore.

POEM: Everything & Its Opposite

IMG_0235They say,
“Everything,
&
its Opposite,
is true of India.”

colors so bold
and brash
please the eye
despite the clash
Then there is
that darkest side
slain daughters
burning brides

curry scents
draw the drool
flowery fragrances
from lotus pools
still,
other scents
fill the air
piss,
poverty,
death,
& despair?

honking horns
jar the brain
the piercing blare
of a freight train
then silence
but for the mind
slowing, calming
freed from grind
&
Infinite possibilities.

DAILY PHOTO: Mustache Machismo

Taken September 5, 2013

Taken September 5, 2013

India is the last bastion of the luxuriant mustache as a font of machismo. While the thick, droopy stache may have fallen out of favor with male porn stars and deep South State Troopers, it remains emblematic in Bollywood.

One day, when the Freddie Mercury mustache returns to its former glory, Indian men will be able to hold their heads high, certain in the knowledge that they never abandoned the stache.

It should be noted that the power of the stache goes way back here. On the elaborately towering Hindu temples, one will see such figures. I have yet to learn which deity sports the stache (often along with a pot belly,) but it’s not Ron Jeremy–that much I know for certain.

DAILY PHOTO: Tipu Sultan’s Palace

Taken September 5, 2013 in Bangalore.

Taken September 5, 2013 in Bangalore.

This summer palace in Bangalore is held up by 160 columns, each of which is a single teak tree trunk. This section is what remains and is where the Sultan held audience with citizens. It’s located just south of the City Market (KR Market.)