Surf [Free Verse]

so much power
 in a lazy rolling wave
  as it tips into a tube.

a column of
 weighty water

pressing one down &
 holding one in a 
  back-shaped divot 
  on the sandy bottom,

a forced pour 
 onto face and chest,

flowing & rolling
 over both sides with 
   such easy skill
    as to negate a 
      frantic, thrashing
       attempt to roll free.